and make a garment that is totally inappropriate for the weather!
Actually, it’s made of wool, so I say it counts as a winter garment. Yes, after 3 muslins I’ve finally got my fit issues worked out on the Rooibos dress, and I’ve cut into my wool crepe. I preshrank this crepe in the dryer with wet towels, a method that I’m pretty sure I don’t recommend. It came out with dark splotches, so I washed the whole piece in the sink with eucalen, and they went away. I think this color was just going to change a bit on getting wet, so the whole thing needed to get soaked.
I made 2 alterations to the pattern. First I did a small bust alteration on the front, which removed the excess fabric and made the front (in the size 2) look great! The back was still being weird though – the back neckline was gaping. I read and reread the books on fit, trying to figure out my problem (I often have this issue in ready to wear also.) I don’t have a swayback, so I knew it wasn’t that exactly, and the excess fabric was too high for that anyway. I finally determined that my issue was called “erect posture” in the books. I would not think that standing up straight requires an alteration, but there you go. I have very straight posture, as a result of years of music, dance, and stage training and work. I did the alteration for erect posture, and it was fixed! I’d imagine this is an alteration I will be doing often.
The actual color of the crepe is closer to the top photo, though it is richer than that. My camera hates greens – and it is green, not teal. I have changed the neckline. The original design has a tiny little collar formed from the facing, but I was not a fan of it. I’m going to use some decorative buttons there instead. I’m making a 2 for the bodice, but a size 0 for the midriff and skirt – the 2 had a lot of extra fabric, which is again strange because my measurements led me to the opposite conclusion – that I should make a smaller top and larger skirt! The crepe is far more stretchy than my muslin fabric, so I knew that I didn’t want it to be too big.
The design calls for piping around the neckline, sleeves, and pockets, and I was anxious to try out my new piping foot (foot 38, for Bernina owners.) I also bought an invisible zipper foot, because I am all about buying the specialty feet rather than making it harder on myself by improvising. I am not good at zippers, though I am improving. My old machine had an awful zipper foot, that tried to do both types of zippers. Not so much. I had to go on an epic search for packaged piping, not being in the mood to make it myself. Joannes was totally out of black, so I had to go to Hancocks again (let me reiterate how sad I am that our big downtown sewing store, Baer’s, closed last year… it was 5 minutes from my house, and actually had things in stock, not to mention all the fabrics… sniff.) I, of course, got sucked into the pattern sales. Here is what I found:
Vogue 1132, I bought this for the skirt pattern, probably to use the plaid from my last post, though I have a red/black plaid that might be more suited. I must confess that I love that jacket too, and I would love to make the complete suit someday. It’s got a bit of that 70s vibe again, and I think I like it.
Vintage Vogue 1136. Dress and jacket combo. They had this made up in the magazine earlier this year, and it is cute, though I confess I would shorten the dress (I don’t do tea length.) I’m mostly attracted to the jacket, which has some unusual detailing.
Vogue 8640. High waist skirt and jacket. Very Mad Men. I love the retro vibe – this would make a great spring suit!
Mccalls 5843. Again I am searching for a maxi dress I will wear. This one isn’t super low cut, which I prefer. I like the ruffle, and I could also see it a bit shorter (with the ruffle.) I can imagine wearing this out to the coffee shop in the summer.
Back to the sewing – I’m trying to decide how to finish the seams, and once I get that worked out I’ll continue on the dress!