Note the fabulous (autographed!) Liberace album, complete with tribute candlesticks, on the mantle in my studio.
Pattern: Butterick 5490, view A
Fabric: Silk/cotton/lycra twill print, available from Gorgeous Fabrics here
Notes: I have a complicated relationship with stretch wovens. They are comfortable to wear, but at best they seem unpredictable to sew. Sometimes I wind up with crinkley seams, or zippers that refuse to go in nicely. As stretch wovens go, this was actually quite nice. It sewed nicely, without stretching, and the zipper went in fine after stabilizing the fabric. But – I had to take the dress in by 2 inches all the way down after I was finished. Did the fabric stretch while sewing, in spite of obsessive amounts of stay stitching? Perhaps. I did make a muslin, which fit, but the stretch factor is so hard to predict. I will say though – the fabric is beautiful. It has lovely drape, and it’s wonderfully cool and light to wear without being at all sheer.
It’s also possible that this pattern was drafted for a C cup. I’m wearing my most padded bra, but I still don’t quite fill out those pleats. I think, in general, the straps/cups are a bit large for my frame, but I should have thought of that – I know that I have to watch the strap size on sleeveless dresses because my ribcage is so small that the proportions get off easily.
I’m very proud of my pattern matching! You can see the waistband is still a bit big. I would add stronger interfacing to this section next time. The dress called for a half lining, but after a pinking shear disaster I had to turn it into a facing – I used an ivory cotton batiste, and lined to the waistband, but not the band itself. It probably needed that extra reinforcement.
Matching nailpolish again… I love this color!
The pattern was easy, but it does have quite a lot of pleats. It is not, therefore, the most slimming thing ever, particularly in the back. I’m ok with that, but I think it’s something to be aware of and plan for. I didn’t follow the instructions, to be honest, because I didn’t like their lining instructions, so I’m not sure how they were. If you’ve made a dress before this one is really straightforward.
I’m wearing this out this weekend – Hitchcock festival at the Palace theater! They do a summer movie series every year… there is nothing like watching old movies in an Art Deco theater!