Pattern: Vintage vogue 7617, circa 1967
Fabric: Stretch wool crepe from Gorgeous fabrics, underlined in purple silk
Notes: Self-stitched September day 3 – another new garment! I’m pretty sure I won’t be keeping up this pace… and actually, this has been finished except for a hem all week. Anyway, I’m pretty pleased with this dress. It looks remarkably like the pattern envelope, which is funny since I remember thinking it was the least accurate looking illustration I’d seen!
It went together easily, but I did make a few alterations. I removed a full 2 inches of ease from the sleevecaps, and again – no issues with the fit, and I can move my arms fine with zero ease. I added an inch to the bodice, since the skirt would have begun in the middle of my chest, and I wanted a true empire waist. I shortened the skirt by an additional 2 inches, which is probably right – mine is shorter than the illustration, but I find it important for an a-line skirt to clear my knees, or the proportions don’t work. I also did not interface the hem, because I didn’t really want it to stand out as much as the illustration. Due to the weight of the fabric, mine stands out pretty well anyway.
I underlined the entire dress in purple silk twill. I had some in my stash, and I hated the finish (sort of sueded) so I’m glad I got to use it up on this project. It added structure to the dress, and since the crepe was drapey this was necessary! It does tend to bag a bit on the skirt pieces, but since it isn’t noticeable on the outside I don’t care. The pockets are made of the silk. The pockets, incidentally, are tiny. I can only fit my fingers in there, and I know I do have giant man hands, but it seems a bit much. I would leave them out if I made the dress again.
The fit is good overall (I didn’t get any photos of the back, but there aren’t any issues back there. Vogue patterns seem to fit me really well. The only thing I wish I could fix is the bust… it fit fine in my muslin, but in the finished fabric the weight of the skirt tends to pull down on the center front of the bust (the fabric is gathered there, so it’s extra heavy.) It doesn’t lay flat against my body. Because of that I have to wear it with a camisole, lest I accidentally expose anything, but I’m ok with that – I sort of like the look of the extra straps, since the neckline is so wide.
I decided to go totally 60s in styling, with flipped hair and (though you can’t see it) winged eyeliner. I love the polka-dot tights, which are from H&M, but they are terrible quality. I’ve only worn them once, and they came out of the package with snags! I was really concerned about this dress before I hemmed it, which is why it took me a week to get to the hem, but I’m pleased now that it’s done. This outfit is great for a nice dinner out!
Self-stitched September details:
Dress: Vogue 7617
Tights: H&M, current season
Shoes: Gianni Bini wing-tip mary janes
Necklace: Target, last fall