Pattern: Butterick 5672
Fabric: Double knit (rpl blend) 2 yards
This was my favorite pattern from Butterick this fall. I’ve been waiting for the weather to cool down so that I could justify making a dress out of a heavier fabric. It got down to 45 last week, which is good enough for me! This is a style that I have struggled with. I like the idea of side pleating, but in practice I find that it often looks bulky. On this dress it doesn’t, in part beacause it has a waist seam, and also because I made it pretty fitted! Here is a closeup of the pleats:
They are stitched down for several inches, which also helps to keep the front from blousing out. The pattern itself was very simple. I eliminated the lining, and chose to finish the neckline with a simple turn under. This is the length as drafted, and I often have to shorten Butterick patterns. Other than that, it fit very well. I cut between the sizes, going between an 8 on the bottom and 10 on the top. The actual construction of the dress took about 2 hours – it was very quick! I did not use the instructions, and took a totally different order of operations so that I could try it on. I ended up taking in 1/2″ from the underarms to upper hip, as it was just slightly roomy there. I didn’t get a great photo of the back, but the fit is decent. I would eliminate the rear darts if I made it again. I did remove all the ease from the sleeves – there is no reason for that in a knit, and there was quite a bit of ease too (2.5″ or so.) I do this for all sleeved garments, even wovens, because I find that the ease causes them to fit my shoulders poorly, and also because I hate easing in sleeves more than anything! I could lie and say that I have a scientific process to do this, but in fact I just measure the sleevecap and sleeve, subtract one number from the other, draw a horizontal line between the notches on the sleeve, and then fold out that amount on the pattern piece before cutting.
I’m not sure what I will make next – I have no weekends until November, so hopefully I can manage to squeeze in some time!