Pattern: Vogue 8787
Fabric: Blue ponte from Fabricmart
I’m not usually drawn to asymmetry. I generally prefer both sides of my neckline the same, because I fear looking like a kooky artist (even if that’s what I am!) I really liked this pattern though. I was going to make the version with the drape neckline, but I decided to try something different. Happily, I think it turned out well – I really like this dress!
I made a few alterations to the pattern. Since my ponte was a medium to heavy-weight, I knew that I wouldn’t want to line it. That was fine, but I had to figure out what to do with the neckline! I decided to do a bias facing, so I removed most of the seam allowance in order to sew a 1/4 inch seam there. Because of the way the bodice is constructed (with a seam at the corner of the square) it’s relatively easy to bind the square neckline. You don’t even have to reinforce/clip the corner because it’s already open! Just be sure to sew that seam up to 1/4 inch away, but not all the way to the edge. Here is how mine came out:
After sewing on the bias (and stretching the corner apart to sew a straight seam – similar to a v neck) I pressed the seam towards the facing, rolled the entire facing to the inside, and topstitched 1/4 inch away from the edge. I then trimmed the leftover facing right next to the facing on the inside. I’ve done this treatment several times (I’ve made several Vogue patterns that use it.) It isn’t neat looking on the inside like a traditional bias binding, but it is faster. And I’ll be honest – if I know the insides will not show, I will worry about it being sturdy, and not really care if the edge still showing. Ponte doesn’t ravel, so it doesn’t require seam finishing.
I opted for the long sleeves, which wasn’t one of the views with listed yardages. I ended up using nearly the full 3 yards of fabric I had bought. Why is that? Because of the skirt. It’s very full and heavy, and it takes up lots of fabric to cut properly:
After the dress was mostly completed I let it hang in my closet for a week. Since the skirt is heavy and has bias pieces, it could have stretched out unevenly. I didn’t want to have to redo my hem, so I always recommend hanging full skirts for a few days. Luckily, this one did not stretch out of shape. I ended up removing 4 inches in length, so that the dress would clear my knees. It’s a little bit longer than it looks on the package, but not outrageous (I’m 5’8″ tall, if that helps!)
I cut a straight size 8 with no alterations. I considered taking some width from the underarms, as they are a little loose, but I decided that I valued the comfort of the dress. I also omitted the center back zipper and cut the pieces on the fold. It is a little tight to get into, but it’s fine once it’s on, and I’d rather not have a zipper in a knit.
I have not hemmed the sleeves. I have long arms, and I like where they are now. I will probably leave them that way.
One final thing to be aware of – you cannot wear a normal bra with this neckline. I’m wearing a strapless, and I’m fine with that, but it will expose any straps.
Overall I highly recommend this pattern. I think it’s different enough to be fashionable, but it’s comfy (in a knit) and easy to construct. I want to go ahead and make that other view – wouldn’t the drape neck look lovely in a black ponte?