FO: Rooibos dress February 9, 2010

Pattern: Rooibos from Colette Patterns

Size: 2 for the bodice, 0 for the skirt

Fabric used: Wool crepe from Gorgeous Fabrics for the dress, black rayon crepe for the facings

Notes: Love how this dress came out!  The color is still not right – it’s emerald green, you’ll just have to trust me on that one.  This is the first dress I have made, and the second pattern from Colette patterns.  I would completely recommend this pattern, it turned out adorable.  This is not necessarily a style that I wear easily, but as it turned out the slightly empire waist made it flattering!   There were a few minor errors in my copy of the pattern.  The pattern itself was fine, but there were several places in the instructions where pieces are misidentified in the text.  The diagrams are all correct, and they were easy to spot.  I did do a small bust adjustment, as the cups on the bodice were too large for me (I am a B cup.)   I lapped the pattern 1/2″, and that made it fit perfectly.  I also did an alteration to the back for upright posture.  The idea (as I understand it) is that most patterns assume a slightly rounded back, whereas I stand all the time like I’m balancing a book on my head.  This effectively removed 1/2″ in the back, making it even with the front.

(Sorry for the wrinkles… I was sitting today!) I think my back is somewhat narrow as well, though my shoulders are not.   The shoulders are quite wide on this pattern – I sewed snaps into them to attach my bra straps to, because otherwise they do show, and I think on the second try of this pattern I will narrow them a bit.

If I make this dress again (and I plan to, after all that work on the fit – I can imagine it several ways!)  I will do a full lining.  The pattern calls for facings that extend partway down the bodice.  The facing shows through slightly – you can see the ghost of it in the first photo above.  The wool crepe is thick, so I’d imagine under a thin fabric it would show even more.  It’s also a little uncomfortable to me to have the facing end where it does.  The rayon crepe that I used for the facing ravels like crazy – I had to be very careful with my seam finishes, and even so there are a few places that I’m worried about.  The wool also ravels a bit.  This dress made me decide I needed a serger, so I am purchasing one off of Craigslist – I got a good deal!

I am still searching for a better way to preshrink wool fabric (without drycleaning… it’s bad enough I’m planning to dryclean this dress!)  I was not thrilled with the results of the dryer method – while it did shrink, it also fulled slightly around the edges of the fabric, and there are a few pulled threads.  No one but me would notice though!

I think this dress has a bit of a 60s vibe, so I paired it with a vintage broach (my Grandma’s) which matches it exactly!  My grandma had a ton of Sarah Coventry jewelry, and I’ve inherited the lot.  I love pins and broaches, the bigger the better!

We had what is (for us) an epic snow last night – six inches!  I tried for photos anyway…

This is closer to the color of the dress.

I learned several new skills with this pattern.  I learned to apply piping and an invisible zipper (both not hard, but I did get the special feet for my machine.)  I am so thrilled with my dress, and can’t wait to make more!

Books for sewing beginners February 9, 2010

There’s one question I’ve been getting repeatedly since I’ve started sewing – “What books are you using to teach yourself?”  I thought it was worthy of a blog post, so that I have somewhere to send those questions!  These books are mostly for garment sewing – for quilting I’ve been using the instructions in “Last minute Quilted and Patchwork gifts.”

For the absolute beginner, there are two books I own and love, both recommended to me by fabulous blogging friends.

Sew U, by Wendy Mullins, is probably the more popular of the two.  It contains excellent directions on everything from threading your needle to sewing a pair of pants.  I made the skirt, and it turned out pretty cute.  I really appreciate her “make it your own” attitude – the patterns included, for pants, a skirt, and a blouse, are basic, but she encourages you to think outside the box and improvise on a basic design, an attitude that I’m trying to keep in mind!  She also has a book for knits, which I own, and which I am awaiting my serger for, and she has a new book on dresses coming out this week(you had best believe I will be buying that one.)

SEW: The Sew Everything Workshop by Diana Rupp is actually my favorite of these two beginner books.  I don’t know why – something about her tone just speaks to me more, I feel like she’s the one I would rather take a class from, and if I lived in NYC you’d better believe that I would (our local sewing classes are almost entirely quilting or heirloom sewing.)  This book has a bunch of projects, and mostly they are super cute (a plus!)  Some of them are included on paper, and others teach you to draft your own pattern.  I haven’t made any of them, but I do have plans to make “Tender is the nightie,” a draft your own nightgown pattern (note: I will not be modeling that one for the blog!)

Moving past the beginner books, you need a basic all-in-one reference book.  I like Vogue sewing.  This is the edition I have – it’s pretty clear, and I like the vintage style graphics and design.  I hear that some of the tailoring techniques are not in this newer book, but I have Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Schaeffer to explain many of the more “high end” touches.  I love this book, even if I don’t understand it all yet – it’s worth it for the look inside couture design studios, and the beautiful photos of the insides of classic designer garments.  I got them on a “buy both, get a tiny discount” deal from Amazon.

I also have 2 editions of the simplicity sewing guide.  The one I have has hilariously outdated fashions – you too can learn how to finish your 80s style track suit on the serger!  You can “fix” your lopsided shoulders by giving yourself 3 shoulder pads on one side (hello linebacker…) But the info is great, and sometimes it is more clear than the Vogue book.  The edition I have is still for sale at my Hancock’s, so I assume it is the current one.  I have one from the late 60s also, which is fabulously mod, and which takes you chapter by chapter through making different garments (similar to the “Vogue New Book of Better sewing” that the fabulous Gertie is working her way through on her blog.)  It offers recommendations for simplicity patterns of the time.  The late 60s aren’t my favorite, so I won’t be making my own project, but it is fun.  I’m looking to get some older (1940s or so) sewing books as well, for reference with my vintage patterns.

Finally, as far as sewing garments go, the next big challenge is fit – learning to fit your clothes is hard!  I just got 2 fitting books.

These two books have different approaches, and are both nice to have.  I like Fast Fit the most – Sandra Betzina recommends making a muslin, which I always do.  The illustrations are cute, and the amount of information isn’t overwhelming.  Fit for Real People is also excellent, despite my dislike of the term “real people.”  I used the tissue fitting technique on my plaid Simplicity blouse and found it helpful in choosing a size, though I confess that I still made a muslin.  If I had to make a criticism of both books, it’s that the styles being fitted are pretty outdated, and not always so flattering.  Fit for Real people seems to really love shoulder pads too.  But of course, it was written awhile ago, and styles do change.  I appreciate the positive message of the book.

So there you go… a selection of books that are good (in my beginner’s opinion) for a sewing library.  I hope you find it helpful!

What to do on a snowy Saturday… February 6, 2010

Cut

and sew

and make a garment that is totally inappropriate for the weather!

Actually, it’s made of wool, so I say it counts as a winter garment.  Yes, after 3 muslins I’ve finally got my fit issues worked out on the Rooibos dress, and I’ve cut into my wool crepe.  I preshrank this crepe in the dryer with wet towels, a method that I’m pretty sure I don’t recommend.  It came out with dark splotches, so I washed the whole piece in the sink with eucalen, and they went away.  I think this color was just going to change a bit on getting wet, so the whole thing needed to get soaked.

I made 2 alterations to the pattern.  First I did a small bust alteration on the front, which removed the excess fabric and made the front (in the size 2) look great!  The back was still being weird though – the back neckline was gaping.  I read and reread the books on fit, trying to figure out my problem (I often have this issue in ready to wear also.)  I don’t have a swayback, so I knew it wasn’t that exactly, and the excess fabric was too high for that anyway.  I finally determined that my issue was called “erect posture” in the books.  I would not think that standing up straight requires an alteration, but there you go.  I have very straight posture, as a result of years of music, dance, and stage training and work.  I did the alteration for erect posture, and it was fixed!  I’d imagine this is an alteration I will be doing often.

The actual color of the crepe is closer to the top photo, though it is richer than that.  My camera hates greens – and it is green, not teal.  I have changed the neckline.  The original design has a tiny little collar formed from the facing, but I was not a fan of it.  I’m going to use some decorative buttons there instead.  I’m making a 2 for the bodice, but a size 0 for the midriff and skirt – the 2 had a lot of extra fabric, which is again strange because my measurements led me to the opposite conclusion – that I should make a smaller top and larger skirt!  The crepe is far more stretchy than my muslin fabric, so I knew that I didn’t want it to be too big.

The design calls for piping around the neckline, sleeves, and pockets, and I was anxious to try out my new piping foot (foot 38, for Bernina owners.)  I also bought an invisible zipper foot, because I am all about buying the specialty feet rather than making it harder on myself by improvising.  I am not good at zippers, though I am improving.  My old machine had an awful zipper foot, that tried to do both types of zippers.  Not so much.  I had to go on an epic search for packaged piping, not being in the mood to make it myself.  Joannes was totally out of black, so I had to go to Hancocks again (let me reiterate how sad I am that our big downtown sewing store, Baer’s, closed last year… it was 5 minutes from my house, and actually had things in stock, not to mention all the fabrics… sniff.)  I, of course, got sucked into the pattern sales.  Here is what I found:

Vogue 1132, I bought this for the skirt pattern, probably to use the plaid from my last post, though I have a red/black plaid that might be more suited.  I must confess that I love that jacket too, and I would love to make the complete suit someday.  It’s got a bit of that 70s vibe again, and I think I like it.

Vintage Vogue 1136.  Dress and jacket combo.  They had this made up in the magazine earlier this year, and it is cute, though I confess I would shorten the dress (I don’t do tea length.)  I’m mostly attracted to the jacket, which has some unusual detailing.

Vogue 8640.  High waist skirt and jacket.  Very Mad Men.  I love the retro vibe – this would make a great spring suit!

Mccalls 5843.  Again I am searching for a maxi dress I will wear.  This one isn’t super low cut, which I prefer.   I like the ruffle, and I could also see it a bit shorter (with the ruffle.)  I can imagine wearing this out to the coffee shop in the summer.

Back to the sewing – I’m trying to decide how to finish the seams, and once I get that worked out I’ll continue on the dress!

fabric and fitting February 4, 2010

I’ve spent the past 2 evenings making a muslin of the Colette Rooibos dress.  I’ve been having some trouble with the sizing.  Here is the size chart:

My actual measurements are 32-27-36.  I decided to cut the bodice in a size 0, and the skirt/waist in a 2.  The size 0 bodice was pretty tiny (as in, can’t move my arms tiny, even though I’m smaller than the measurments,) so I made up the size 2.  The 2 is too big, and the size 2 skirt is also large (by at least an inch, maybe more, even though I am in fact larger than the waist/hip measurements for that size.)  I can go down a size in the skirt/midriff area, but I’m puzzled about the top.  I think I may need a small bust adjustment, so I will try that (I’m a b cup, but apparently these patterns are drafted for a c.)  I may also need a little less room in the back, as the low neckline gapes a little.   (See why I think it’s strange that the smaller size didn’t fit?)

Maybe I’m spoiled from knitting patterns, but I fail to see why sewing patterns don’t list all relevant measurements.  The hip/waist finished size is necessary in a dress.  I can measure the pieces, but a schematic would be far more useful.  And I am not complaining about this company… no one has this.  For some companies if you want to see the bust size you will have to take the pattern out of the envelope, and it may not be there at all.

Oh well… good thing I have brand new copies of Fit for Real People and Fast Fit to help me figure out fitting – it’s definitely the most challenging part!  Tomorrow I’ll try an adjustment for the smaller bust and take in the seams on the skirt/midriff band.  I’ve given up on a few dresses because of fit issues, but I’m determined to figure this one out.  It’s pretty simple to assemble, and I don’t want it to be super fitted, so hopefully I can fix my issues (I just have to not get frustrated, and remind myself that clothes in stores are often weirdly too big on me too.)

I shall console myself by dreaming of what some of my new fabrics could become (problem?  I don’t have a problem, really…)

Lovely leopard print doubleknit.  Slightly textured, but not fuzzy.  I bought it because it looks just like this dress, from my inspiration folder:

I love animal prints, and I will not apologize!  I’m not sure how I feel about exposed zippers – I appreciate that they are trendy and all, but they aren’t really me.

Plaid 100 percent wool jacquard.  I got this at Hancocks, believe it or not.  The Louisville Hancocks is pretty sad, but the one in southern Indiana (which is closer to me anyway, since I live downtown) is awesome.  This was on a clearance table for 3 dollars a yard.  I’m dreaming of a bias cut plaid skirt, a-la this 70s pattern.

Although perhaps a bit shorter.  I can’t decide whether I like 70s styles or not.  On one hand, Mary Tyler Moore (during her eponymous show) is one of my fashion icons.  But on the other hand? This:

I also blame the 70s for ponchos, so there is that… but I still like lots of the 70s patterns.  Many of the styles look very current, if you imagine them in colors other than orange.

I hope to have better news about my dress in my next post!

Choosing patterns that suit February 1, 2010

Look, I’m the first to admit that I have a pattern buying problem.  I am totally unable to resist a cute modeled (or drawn) photo, and will often buy something without thinking of how it will actually look on my body.  However, as of today I’m making a pledge – no more buying patterns if you wouldn’t buy the finished garment in a store.

Here’s an example:

Now, this pattern is adorable.  Look at the cute sash on version 2!  The scalloped neckline and sleeves!  The sassy way that the model has taken off one glove!

I actually made a muslin of the bodice of this dress, and let me tell you… it is not for me.  Actually, the neckline and cut on sleeves are cute, but the style is rather less fitted than it appears to be in the line drawings (and my measurements are almost exactly what a vintage 32 call for.)  Actually, it’s enormous in the bodice, and while I could adjust it, I think I’d really rather just find a pattern that will suit me better – perhaps one with actual sleeves, as anything faintly kimono or dolman-ish gives me issues.  Blouses are ok, but not dresses or sweaters.

I think it’s important to be realistic about what actually looks good on your shape.  My principle challenge is being petite.  A lot of fashion these days seems to be about volume, and I just can’t do it.

Instead I’m going to go ahead and make a muslin of Colette patterns Rooibos dress, since I was so pleased by the Beignet skirt.

I’m going to be using a lovely kelly green crepe from Gorgeous fabrics (it’s so much more beautiful than this photo, but I couldn’t get a better photo with my camera either!)

I’m using a black crepe for the contrast color, and black piping for the details.   At least I hope I am… assuming the muslin works out!  I’m going to make the smallest size to start, and we will see if that fits me.  It’s for a 33″ bust, and I have (sigh) a 31.5″ bust.  I wouldn’t mind a little extra ease though, so we’ll see, and I can always take it down a size.

Now the question of the hour… would I buy this dress in the store?  The answer is “yes, if it actually fit me.”  I buy a lot of empire waist dresses and things with ties, since I can never get all parts of a fitted dress to fit my measurements (apparently if you’re skinny you’re supposed to be straight up and down, which I am not at all.)  And that’s what sewing is about, right?  Getting a garment that’s made for your measurements, not whatever measurements the manufacturer has decided you should be.

I’ll report back in a day or two with the results of my muslin… hopefully good!  I’ve also (ahem) bought some fabric, and I want to talk about my plans for it.  I wish very much that there was a Ravelry for sewing.  I’ve got spreadsheets going for patterns and fabric, which is what I did for my knitting pre Ravelry.  I had forgotten how terribly annoying it was.  Patternreview has some of the same features, but it’s not the same, and I need the stash organization aspect (lest it all get buried in boxes and bought again!)

Randomness, answers to comments January 27, 2010

You guys, I am seriously exhausted this week.  I’m singing in the Verdi Requiem with the Louisville Orchestra (and if you’re local you should totally come… it’s going to be great!)  We’ve been rehearsing every day, and today was the first full dress, on stage with orchestra etc.  Let me tell you, standing shoulder to shoulder with 150 people under hot stage lights for 3 hours, singing music that is seriously hard, is not as glamorous as it sounds.    But… the music is fabulous and it will be worth it.  Just watch out for fainting sopranos!

So in lieu of actual blog fodder this week, I’m going to answer a recent comment, and then talk about things I don’t have time to make right now!  And I’d just like to say… I don’t always have time to reply to everyone, but I appreciate so much when you stop to comment!

Emma in France “Is it just me or are you going back to red hair again? Perhaps it’s just the green in the blouse bringing out the red tones. Looks great anyway!” You know, that’s actually a funny story.  I haven’t had my hair dyed in about 6 months.  Do you see roots?  Yeah, me either.  I have apparently managed to end up with hair the same color as my natural color, which of course I had no idea what was, since I haven’t seen it in over a decade.  Apparently now my hair is red.  Which is fine, albeit weird, but I’m still probably going to dye it more brown, since I still don’t love how the red limits the colors I can wear.  I have no idea how it ended up this color, especially when I started out like this:

Oh yeah… I rocked that early 80s haircut.  And I loved that dress.  But anyway, last I checked I was a blonde (though darker than I was at age 6, obviously) so it’s really weird that it’s turned reddish now.

I also have had a few questions about how I set my hair in pincurls, so let me recommend a youtube channel for you… LisaFreemontStreet does tons of vintage hair tutorials, especially 40s, which are my favorites.  I don’t usually do actual pincurls – I use pillow rollers, which you can buy at the drugstore.  They’re little sponges covered in cloth with wires through the middle.  You roll the hair and then twist the roller to make it stay.  I usually wash my hair and then dry the roots partially (so it won’t set funny in the back.)  I roll my hair, using a setting lotion, and then sleep in the rollers (I wear a scarf to cover them… oh yeah, it’s pretty attractive!)  They are much more comfortable to sleep in than the foam rollers you can also buy, since they are small and very soft.  The look is similar to rag curlers.  My hair is naturally somewhat wavy, at least underneath, but has always been hard to curl, so I generally blow dry it straight.  Curling it this way, it will last until I wash it out.  I sometimes use the caruso steam rollers you can buy at Sally Beauty also… they make a nice long lasting curl, but not as tight, and you don’t have to sleep in them.  After you take out the rollers you have to brush the curls out, and I recommend watching some of the videos to get an idea about that, because at first it looks pretty frightful… you just have to keep brushing!

I really love vintage hairstyles, so I’ve been trying some of these out.   I’ve always been terrible with my hair, so if I can do it anyone can!

Last weekend I decided that this week would be “finish Salina” week.  Um… yeah.  I have had zero time to work on that, and this weekend we may be going to Cincinnati (Marc’s grandfather passed away 2 weeks ago, and we need to help his parents clean some things out.)  My schedule this year has been tough on my knitting – before I was always traveling and waiting around, so I had lots of incidental time.  Now that I’m home, it seems I always have something that needs to be done- plus I’m doing a lot more performing, and lately those groups are taking up a lot of time (last weekend, for instance, I was on retreat, learning all the music for a spring concert.)  Sewing requires dedicated time, but not necessarily over a long period.  But don’t worry if I’ve been all about the sewing lately – I am not giving up knitting, I’ve just been soaking up all sorts of information.  I do love to learn new things, and I am nothing if not obsessive about learning to do things the right way.  And I really need some new clothes.

I’ve been looking for cardigans to make when I finish Salina.  My black cardigan was purchased in, no kidding, 1998.  It’s not really black anymore.  I’m still deciding on what pattern to make, and considering my glacial progress, I have time!

I do have loads of fashion inspiration though.  For instance, I love everything Emma wears on Glee (and Marc and I are way more obsessed with that show than we have any right to be!) So I have a new blog added to my blogroll… WWEPW (What Would Emma Pillsbury wear.)  It’s possible that we went as Emma and Ken for Halloween.  No one knew who we were, but hey we had fun (it’s better if you can see that he’s in gym shorts and I’m wearing rubber gloves.)

Ok, enough randomness – hope everyone is having a great week!

FO: A top for girly lumberjacks (Simplicity 2501) January 24, 2010

Pattern: Simplicity 2501

Fabric: Green flannel cotton from Fabric.com (actually a quilting flannel I think)

Notions: Six 1/2″ green buttons, sew in interfacing, a set of 3/8″ shoulder pads

Notes: This is my new favorite photo of myself… see below for the shirt in living color!  I was attracted to this pattern because of the ties and the puffy sleeves.  I was looking to replicate a shirt I saw on Modcloth (see my last post for a photo of that) and thought this pattern looked like a good starting place.  It’s a pattern that has different pieces for B,C, and D cups – I used the B cup pieces.   There are several different styles, including pieces for long sleeves, 3/4 length ruched sleeves, and a bodice option with a peplum.

I opted to make view B, which had short puffy sleeves and a tie, but no peplum.  I don’t think the peplum would have worked well with the plaid, as the pieces were rather curved.  It took me forever to cut out the plaid so it would match up, but it was worth it!  I’m especially proud of the fronts.  It matches everywhere except the back sleeves.   I used sew-in lightweight interfacing.  I didn’t mention it, but I also used sew-in on the Beignet skirt, and I find that I prefer it to the fusibles.  I don’t think it takes any more time than it takes to fuse, and I find it less annoying and the results nicer.

I made quite a few alterations, in order to get the fit and look I wanted.  First I tried tissue fitting the bodice, which I found very helpful.  There’s a good video tutorial on Gertie’s blog, if you are interested.  I’ve ordered “Fit for real people” and I’m looking forward to reading it as well.I discovered that most of my shoulder width is in my back (which I knew) so I cut a size 8 on the back, and a 6 in the front.  I also took about an inch total out of the waist – I wanted a more fitted look than the pattern was designed for.  I drafted new pieces for the neckband and ties – the ones included were sort of dinky, and I wanted to be able to tie a bow.  I added 12″ in length to each end of the tie.  I sewed the sleeves in flat, which worked just fine.  After the shirt was finished I wasn’t quite satisfied with the look of the sleeves – the puffs were tending to be droopy.  I thought about it, and realized that the 1940s blouse silhouette that I love (which I was semi imitating) used shoulder pads… so I sewed in a pair of 3/8″ pads, and the look instantly improved.  I would definitely recommend this pattern, and I plan to make another in a more traditional fabric (with longer sleeves.)

I am so pleased at how this came out – it matches the image I had it my head, and how often does that happen?  I learned a lot about fitting on this one, and made alterations that gave me the fit I wanted.  It was relatively straightforward, and the directions in the pattern were fine (It did jump around a bit, but since I did things in a different order it didn’t really matter.)

Spring simplicity patterns January 17, 2010

It’s too early for Spring knit patterns, but the spring sewing patterns are coming out!  Despite the fact that I’m new to sewing, so all the patterns are new to me, I do love new releases.  Joanns and Hancocks have regular sales where Butterick, McCalls and Simplicity go to 99 cents, and Vogues are 3.99,  and I cannot resist.  Tonight I went to Joanns (ostensibly to buy Guttermann thread at 50% off, but you know… might as well peruse the new collections!)  I got these Simplicity patterns from the new catalog for 99 cents each.

I really like Cynthia Rowley’s patterns for Simplicity.   This dress is cute, but I really love it with the jacket – I can picture it dressed up several ways!  I’ve made a muslin of one of the Project Runway patterns and liked the process (though the style was not for me, I like the full skirt on this one) and I like all the pieces in the Threads wardrobe (which also includes a cute top.)

I also got these patterns, which aren’t new (no, I don’t have a problem…)

I like the shaped waistband on the first pattern.  The 2nd pattern is cute, and I want to try out a bubble skirt, though I may or may not like it on myself.  It may depend on what you wear with it (certainly not whatever the heck that model is wearing… her boots have elastic ankle bands!)  In the last pattern I like the top modeled version, which is kind of a Grecian look.  I want to use it to make my own version of this vintage dress, which was sold long ago (but I saved the photo in my inspiration file)

It’s not exactly the same, but close enough with a few alterations.  It all depends on finding a fabulous fabric, and someday I shall!  I like maxi dresses, but dislike thin straps, which many of them have (my shoulders are super bony, and besides they just aren’t me…) and they are often lowcut.  I don’t mind a little cleavage, but I hate anything that shows my sternum, thanks.

Speaking of my inspiration directory, I’m getting ready to make my version of this top (from Modcloth, it’s still available if anyone is interested.)

I bought a nice flannel from fabric.com

and I’m using this Simplicity pattern, with a few alterations.

I’m making the short sleeves with the ties (I’m lengthening the ties, they are so short!)  I’m undecided on the peplum vs no peplum issue.  The inspiration actually has an empire waist, so I may get closer to the look I want by making sure the basic top is well fitted.  I’m making a muslin or 2, so I’ll have time to figure that out.  I’ve made some mock ups with set in sleeves before, but this will be my first actual garment with them (so they actually have to look decent!)  Knitting has taught me a bit about easing in fullness, and I’m pretty sure I’m going to be employing my basting skills.

FO: Beignet Skirt January 15, 2010

Pattern: Beignet by Colette Patterns

Fabric: yellow cotton twill from fabric.com

Notions: 10 7/8″ navy blue buttons by la mode, ivory bemberg rayon for lining, twill tape to reinforce waistband.

Notes: I love, love, love this skirt!  I made a size 2, after I made the muslin in a size 4 – the 4 matched my waist measurement, but was too big in the skirt.  I decided that a high waisted skirt should have a very fitted waist, and I’m pleased with that decision.  It fits just about perfectly.

I wear a 2 or 4 in ready to wear, so it’s pretty true to retail misses sizes.  This is the first time I have lined a skirt, and it was a challenge!  I bought bemberg rayon, because I like the feel and I hate polyester linings.  That stuff is crazy slippery.  Here’s what I did:  I spray starched the heck out of it, pinned my pattern pieces to it, cut in a single layer with a rotary cutter, and got pieces that were close enough.  I sewed it together with the walking foot, preventing layer shifting, and I basted it into the facings by hand before machine sewing.  It was a lot of work, but totally worth it – this sort of skirt, without a lining, would be useless with tights because it would ride up or get static.  No problems at all with the lining!

I did not have any problems at all with the instructions – they were clear and illustrated step by step.  I did not care for the belt loops after I made them – they were too short imo, and they were also flimsy and hard to sew on.  I made my own, copying the look of dress pants loops, and they look great (basically I topstitched 2 lines down the middle to hold them together, then sewed them on by hand.  I showed my buttonhole trick yesterday – see that post for my new tool there.  I reduced the buttons by 1 and spaced them 2 inches apart – my buttons were 7/8″ instead of 3/4″ so I wanted them slightly farther apart.

This skirt is totally do-able by a near beginner – someone who, like me, has a few garments done but is looking to add skills.  I learned so much on this project, and I can’t wait for the next Colette pattern I make – I adore the aesthetic!  The best part?  I can wear this skirt with a shirt that is otherwise too short to tuck in, thus extending my wardrobe!

Buttonholes January 14, 2010

I’ve sewn a lot of buttonholes and buttons into knitwear.  I’ve repaired my share of coats with missing buttons.  But it never before occurred to me how you make the actual hole the button goes into.  My machine has an automatic buttonholer, which is great – program the length and it does all the work!    However, it isn’t as easy as that sounds.  First I ran out of thread, so I bought a spool of matching machine embroidery thread – I love the pretty sheen it gives the buttonholes.  Then I realized my buttons were slightly too big, so I had to adjust the size and spacing.  Finally I faced the biggest problem… opening the holes.  I don’t have embroidery scissors sharp enough, so I started with a seam ripper.  I made 6 test holes, and didn’t manage a single one without grabbing a thread I didn’t mean to on the sides.  I searched online, not wanting to screw up my skirt, and found my solution!

This is a plain 1/2 inch wood chisel, bought new today at the hardware store down the street.  You can actually get buttonhole chisels, but this was both cheaper and half a block away (and Joanns informed me they don’t exist…  I hate Joanns.)

See that perfectly cut hole?  Here’s how you do it.  Lay the fabric on a block of wood (I’m using a tiny cutting board that I don’t find useful otherwise.)  Position the chisel pointing down, with the blade exactly where you want the slit to be cut.  Whack it with a hammer or mallet.  Move down a little, repeat until you have a perfect buttonhole!

Seriously, this looks so much better than the cut holes (I won’t show them… I are embarrassed.)  It’s so easy, but apparently not widespread anymore, so there you go… a sewing tip!

Now I need to sew on the buttons (below) tack down the beltloops, and possibly redo the hem by hand.   I used my blind hem foot, and it didn’t catch the skirt as often as it should have.

I love finding tools at weird stores – I also buy my makeup brushes at the art supply store!